How to Build a Keezer Style Kegerator

Picture of a keezer with collar for homebrewing

When you think of a kegerator, you normally think of an old clunker of a fridge in the corner of a frat house, covered in bumper stickers and stale Natty.

Your kegerator should add style to your place. It should turn heads and get people talking. The type of kegerator I will teach you to build, known as a keezer, will do just that. Then it’s up to you to fill it with great beer, but I’m sure you can handle that.

This page is the starting point for building your keezer. What follows are the three blog posts I wrote about the build as well as parts lists for the kegging setup I use. Make sure to scroll the the bottom of the page to check out pictures of the build as well as keezer picture submitted by readers who built theirs from my instructions.

Blog Posts

  1. The blueprint for a badass kegerator
  2. How to build the keezer collar
  3. How to add a fan and other updates
  4. Insulating the keezer collar

Parts for the gas side

Parts for the beer side


Other Accessories and Resources



  1. Forrest Gump says:

    That thing is sexy. I want a keezer. What was your total cost to get that thing built and running?

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hmm let’s see. The freezer itself was $340. Collar about $100. The kegging gear is around $500. Another $200 for Perlicks and shanks. Including random stuff a good ballpark for my build is $1,200. Keep in mind a lot of it I acquired over the course of 5 years since this isn’t my first kegerator. Time to start on yours!

  2. PA_Jeff says:

    I thought this link might be helpful to keezer users/builders. It cross-references keezer temperature with desired CO2 vols. to let you know what pressure setting to use…

    • Billy Broas says:

      Thanks for posting Jeff. That’s a very handy chart and the one you linked to is one of the best I’ve seen.

      • PA_Jeff says:

        No prob. Your compilation is very informative and will help greatly when I have the space to put in a keezer, and I appreciate that…. You might want to grab that pdf and store it though – don’t know if Victory plans to keep it there for the long-term – it was referenced in their blog this month to answer a reader’s question…

        • Billy Broas says:

          Good call. I put it on my site and linked to it under “Other Accessories and Resources.” Thanks!

  3. Billy, the keezer looks great. Thanks for posting. I’ll file this away for when I have the money, space and spousal-approval to build. I know you’ve got the weather stripping along the bottom of the collar, but I’m wondering if you had considered insulating around the inside of the collar. Might help a bit with the temperature regulation.

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey James, sorry for the delayed reply. I’m sure insulation around the collar would only help. It’s really just a matter of laziness on my part. Once I added the fan it really helped, so I just haven’t felt the need to do much more. Hope you get to build yours soon!

  4. Since you didn’t add an outer collar to the back of the keezer, have you had any issues with it sliding forward? I’m looking at an almost identical build for my keezer and am trying to decide whether its worth adding some kind of outer frame to the back of the collar to keep it from moving at all once it’s placed on the freezer…

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Jamie, the collar hasn’t moved at all. Not even a centimeter, even with me occasionally sliding the freezer around to get at the outlet behind it. I would build it as described and then determine if you need more support, but I doubt you will.

  5. Ryan mawhinney says:

    Hey im thinking of building my first one and i wanted to talk to someone knowledgeable about th. is there any way i could email you about my questions and concerns of the project and get your ideas?

    • Billy Broas says:

      Feel free to use the site’s contact form. Be sure to read all the blog posts and comments too since those will answer most questions.

  6. Hey Billy,

    Apologies if this has been asked already and I missed it. Great build, and fantastic instructional video. My plan is to duplicate much of your work already.

    After using the keezer for a while, are you still happy with the collar being on the bottom instead of the top? Have you had any issues with lifting kegs up and into the keezer, ie smacking a shank, needing an assistant, etc? I’m still trying to decide if I want the collar on the lid or like you have it.

    And lastly, have you thought at all about putting casters on the bottom for easier movement? I don’t plan on riding the keezer around the house, but sliding it out to clean behind may prove useful.

    Thanks for all of your efforts to help keep us in beer!


    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Ian,

      I’m still happy with the collar being on the bottom. You do have to be careful not to whack the shanks but it hasn’t been a problem. The good handles on the cornies really help with that. This is coming from a guy who has dislocated both of his shoulders in the past too.

      The freezer slides pretty well on my hardwood floors so I didn’t add casters. If you’re on carpet or are worried about damaging your floors then casters aren’t a bad idea. Neither is riding it around the house ; )

      • Any thoughts on hefting a half barrel up and into the keezer?

        • Billy Broas says:

          That’ll definitely make things tougher and you’ll need help. Even with the collar attached to the lid it won’t be easy, but your chances of knocking a shank are pretty high with it on the bottom.

  7. I built my keezer out of some lower quality wood, but I think chalkboard paint and chalk can spruce it up.

    • Billy Broas says:

      Looks great! Love the chalkboard paint. I’m still on the “memory system” which often fails after a few pints.

  8. Great site Billy!
    I loosely followed your build. Thanks for the help. It really set me in the right direction. I got to document the process with short videos which I’ll probably post whenever I get a chance to edit the lot of them.

  9. Kris Venema says:


    Fellow Denver-ite here. I have been enjoying your website, and, as I am in the planning/budgeting phases for a keezer, your outline has been very helpful.

    On your list of items (above), would you mind clarifying the use of the flare nut and barb (gas side) and the swivel nut and barb (beer side) are for? The ball locks obviously connect to the keg, so are the nuts and bars then connected to those, or do they attach to the manifold on the gas side and faucet on the beer side?

    Many thanks, Billy!

    Kris V.

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Kris,

      The swivel nuts and barbs are an alternative to using ball locks with barbs like this:

      Whereas those are more permanently connected to the beer/gas lines, the swivels allow you to easily “unscrew” the ball locks. It gives you more flexibility if you want to say, change a ball lock out for a pinlock without cutting the barb out of the line. Either on works, I just prefer these.

      • Kris Venema says:


        Many thanks. I ended up getting pretty much your exact set-up for one keg, and have a plan to slowly build up to a 4 keg system with a keezer. I was hoping on doing all 3 gallon kegs, but it is frustrating at how hard they are to find used. I may end up getting 1 more 3 gallon, then getting two used 5 gallons. I have a 1000 sq. ft. condo that I like to keep very tidy and uncluttered, so I was hoping to be able to get away with a 5 cubit foot keezer, but a 7 or 7.8 cubit foot might also work, too, if it is black with a nicely stained collar. I need to eventually get an old fridge or freezer for a fermenter, but that can go out in the detached garage. It sounds as if you are using a mixture of sizes, too; care to give comment and thoughts?

        Also, thanks for making such high-quality videos that focus more on the process and less on you trying to put yourself online while blabbing away about nothing. I have many books I am using while learning, but always find myself watching your videos to make processes really click. Good job.

        • Billy Broas says:

          Congrats on the set up Kris. Those 3 gallon cornies are tough to find. I have one along with three 5 gallon kegs. I use the 3 gallon for splitting batches and adding something weird or sometimes I’ll do a small experimental batch. It’s also great for taking places.

          Thanks for the kind words on the videos. I don’t exactly love being on camera so I hit record, get to the point, then get off lol.

  10. Billy,
    This is a nice collar on a Keezer. I’ve seen the collar in BYO a couple of times too. This is also a great forum.

    If I can suggest one upgrade that saves $35 if you are willing to wire up a temp controller yourself. There is even a youtube video out there on the project.

    I’ve built 3 controllers using the 110V version of the STC-1000 temp controller found on e-Bay. They can run freezers as well as small room heaters on low watt setting for fermenting as well as a Keezer. I’m on Colorado and have a building we use only for guests. It is a great place to ferment lagers in a closets using the heater side of the controller. My last controller build cost me $42 if you don’t mind shopping at Radio Shack, Walmart Auto Section, and Home Depot.

    Drawbacks…. there are always limitations:
    1) The STC-1000 relays are limited to 10 amps only.
    Cooling Work around: None: The STC -1000 has a run-time setting built in for cooling systems. It is preset for 3 minute runtimes.
    Heat work around: Use a 1st heat setting (600 Watt) on a Pelonis Model HF-0020T, Walmart for $15.

    2) The STC-1000 displays degrees C. Work around: have a temp conversion chart handy. The temp conversion formula C to F is to multiple 9/5 degrees C and then add 32. F to C is minus 32 time 5 and divide by 9.

    3) The STC-1000 had Asians writing the operating instructions. The instructions are real confusing. Work around: Write your own directions for functions F1, F2, F3, F4 and include a temp conversion table. Function 1 (F1) is used most often as it is the temp setting. I can post my directions if that would help someone. Let me know.

    I luv this controller. It can be used in so many places. for example, last week I also have used an unplugged freezer in the garage using a heater side during winter. I set the run time to zero since the heater is not damaged when abruptly turned on and off.

    I hope this was useful.

    • Billy Broas says:

      This is really helpful Bert. Thanks!

      • Josh R. says:

        Bert and Billy,

        You could use the STC-1000 as a pilot relay and negate the 10 amp limitation. If your not familiar with what I’m talking about, Think of how the T-stat works for your house. All the T-stat does at your house is pull the coil in on a larger contactor. The amps needed to pull in the contactor are minimal, usually less than 1/10 of 1 amp. Albeit this adds the cost of another contactor or relay to the price, so unless you have a bunch laying around like i do it may be cost inhibitive.

  11. Awesome job! You’ve inspired me to do the same. I have a question though. I just bought the 3″ bolts that you used, but then remembered that they are supposed to hold a 1×8 to a 2×6. Did you run in to the problem if them being too short to do the job?


    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Josh, the actual dimensions of the wood are less than the stated amount, so the 3″ bolts are long enough. I have about 3/4″ extra on the inside of the collar.

  12. Hi Billy,

    thank you for great instructions. your site helped me a lot. I just finished my build.

    Great site.


  13. Hey Billy – great site, its inspired me to build a collar for my keezer this weekend but I have a quick question for you – is there any advantage to using the bolts as opposed to screwing the fascia to the rough frame? I was thinking about just using some good screws of an appropriate length screwed from the inside to hold it together. Many thanks, Andy

    • Billy Broas says:

      You can use screws just make sure they are big enough to hold the wood pieces together. Should be fine. Let us know how the build goes.

      • Will do! Thanks Billy!

        • Build is all done! Knocked the collar out the next day buy was waiting for the taps to arrive before getting back in touch. I have photos too if you want them. Putting screws in from the back wasnt a problem and worked well, I just used square corners, no miter cuts as I was worried about getting them right. One word of note, which I was kicking myself about after the fact – If a piece of wood says its 2″ thick, its not really 2″ thick so I thought I could save some time and have Lowes do the cuts for me. I thought at the time this was really smart and would save me loads of time but I ended up having to put a 1″ extra block in on either side to account for the discrepancy….doh! It did turn out really well though, now I just need another keg! Thanks Billy!

  14. Andy,

    Good on bringing up the alternative methods of attaching the face boards to the 2×6 (or whatever your using). My plan is to actually wood glue the face boards to the 2×6 and use some thin finishing nails just to hold them in place while they dry.

    Since these boards are on the outside of the larger ones, I’m not expecting any cold/moister issues. Billy, care to make a comment to the methods that I’ve got planned? Otherwise, if this won’t work, using some metal long bolts as described give it a cool look also.

    Thanks for all the info. Planning my build to start in 2 weeks.

    • Billy Broas says:

      There’s certainly more than one way to skin a cat here. Wood glue and nails should work. If not, you can always put some bolts through them.

  15. Thanks, Billy! Making it not just a carpenter can do. Keep it up.

  16. I wanted to share my keezer build pics with everyone here, and thank Billy for the write up. It was definitely helpful while I was researching.

    I attached 1×8 pine to the actual 2×6 collar. It is attached on all ends with brad nails. Then on the side pieces, I used lag screws to screw from the inside of the keezer 2×6 collar into the interior part of the pine. This way there was no exterior damaging and I still have the support. The front piece of pine is held tightly in place by all the shanks and parts and what not. I’m planning on putting a bottle opener on the left side, but I figure 4 tightened shanks should be more than enough support along with the nails.

    The top is also pine (edge glued). It will be insulated with 1.5″ foam (R9 I think). It has a small bow in it at the moment, and I’ve read that bows are practically impossible to get rid of. So I’ve decided to wood screw the top into the 2×6 collar under it to straighten the bow out. I figure if I need something, I can just lift up the collar portion and be fine. I’ll be using 2″ long wood screws for this. Any thoughts on how I should cover this small hole up? Is there caulk that can be stained or maybe just a puddy would be best?

    Hopefully the build inspires others….if not, the beer still taste great!

  17. Billy Broas says:

    Hey Rickey, I love to hear about a new keezer being born! Your build sounds really cool with the way you attached the collar. I’d love to see pics. I can post them on this page and also see that issue you mentioned with the hole. You can send them to broaswp at gmail dot com (preventing bots). Thanks!

  18. Did you glue the collar to the fridge or just use weather stripping? Is it heavy enough to keep the lid form tipping back?

    Thanks for the post.

    • Billy Broas says:

      Nope the collar just sits on the freezer- no glue. It’s heavy enough that it doesn’t budge, even when I move around the freezer.

  19. Hey Billy,
    I was just curious for your collar do you have the pine flush with the outside edge or the inside edge. I know obviously the front has to be flush along with the sides so the oak can drop below the front of the freezer but that back board should it be flush with the inside or outside edge? Thanks a lot really appreciate the instructions can’t wait for this thing to be up and running!

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey sorry Chris I must have overlooked this comment. The collar is flush with the outside edge the entire way around, including the back. Good luck with your build.

  20. I just wanted to share a keezer build which was inspired by yours! The pics in this album are a little outdated (I’ve made a few improvements since the most recent pics, see below), but it gives the general idea.

    I just got into brewing a few months ago, and I didn’t want to deal with bottling. So the first thing I did (before my first batch) was to build a kegerator. I had an unused GE 7.0 cu. ft. chest freezer in the garage, so I decided to build a collar for it. It was my first real woodworking project, but I think it turned out very well, and looks awesome in my game room! Since building it, I find that I’ve been drinking a lot more than I used to! I’ve gone through my first homebrew batch as well as a number of commercial kegs with friends.

    -can store and serve four 5-Gallon kegs at a time (with additional room to store a 5th keg on the shelf if necessary)
    -built-in temp controller (STC-1000) – all wiring properly fused
    -LED light strips turn on when the lid is opened, and a computer fan turns on when the lid is closed (to circulate the air inside and make sure the tubing stays the same temp as the kegs)
    -collar has a lip to accommodate the original freezer wire baskets (useful for storing bottles or growlers)
    -double-hinged so that the freezer lid can be lifted, or the entire collar for easy keg movement
    -easily removal drip tray (magnetic to brackets, or can easily remove both brackets)
    -no damage to original freezer (collar can be completely removed)
    -fully insulated

    Recent improvements (since taking the pics):
    -cut down the brackets so they’re flush with the drip tray and don’t stick out
    -added bottle cap opener and catcher to front on right
    -added towel rack to right side of kegerator
    -attached the 4-port gas manifold to the collar
    -attached power box to the back of the collar
    -got rid of casters and put the whole thing up on an appliance dolly (the old ones were too flimsy attached to the sheet metal of the freezer)

    Still to do:
    -add two more taps
    -attach computer fan to the adjustable speaker mount (right now I just leave it in one of the wire baskets)
    -right now the hinge attaching the collar to the base isn’t really functional… I think the weatherstripping I added for insulation is sticking the two together, which makes it nearly impossible to lift up the entire collar. I may try to fix this, or just leave it, since loading the kegs from the top lid isn’t really a big deal
    -Get better tap handles? Might want to stick with discrete small black ones

    I’d be happy to answer any questions!

  21. Hey everyone! I am currently in the process of acquiring all supplies to build my keezer. I am pretty excited about it and will probably start it this coming weekend.

    My ultimate goal would be to get 5-6 kegs inside, and the gas to be outside. Eventually tying the gas into a manifold, but I got plenty of time to do that. I will start with 2 first and add the third later and so on.

    My main question is the weather stripping and keeping the collar on the keezer itself. I have read all the comments and suggestions on here, but I still feel that there will be some leaks of cold air. Especially in the back. Can anyone confirm that this stays in place and will not leak cold air and make the compressor fire over and over just trying to maintain temperature? Is this really heavy enough to form a real tight seal?

    I will add a fan if needed, but if I don’t have to, that’s one less thing I will have to put in there.

    I see that you silicone the corners and any other gaps, so I am sure that will help. It just seems like cold air would be pouring out the back.

    Also, I want to be able to put the temperature sensor for my thermostat in there. Any mention on whether you should put the lead under the wood collar? Between the door and the wood collar? Or through the wood collar? If you go through, how do you seal any holes? Are you filling any holes with any type of silicone or any type of insulation?

    Thanks for the inspiration and the information. I cant wait to get this started and I will post some pictures if you like.

    Thanks again!

    • Billy Broas says:

      I can tell you that the seal on the bottom of the collar is really tight. Sure you could insulate the heck out of this thing, but in my opinion it’s not worth the hassle.

      As for the sensors, other people can chime in on how they’ve done it but I just go between the collar and the lid. The gasket from the lid gives it a good seal. Good luck with the build!

    • My collar was VERY heavy, so I definitely am not worried about the seal on the weather stripping.

      In regards to the fan, I think it’s really useful to have. Even if everything is perfectly insulated, the cold air will still fall to the bottom of the freezer and the air up in the collar will be warmer (leading to foaming issues from the tubing). A fan helps circulate the air to maintain a consistent temperature throughout, and minimize this prolbem.

      For the sensor, what I did was wire my temp controller to some spring terminals which are accessible on the inside of the collar. I then just attach the sensor to these terminals and put the sensor in a growler full of sanitized water (to minimize the temperature fluctuations, since water takes longer to heat/cool than air). This way if the sensor ever dies on me I can easily replace it without needing to take apart the collar. You can see a pic of what I mean here (the black & red connectors at the back of the collar):

  22. Wow, I see what you did there Devin. Awesome job! But that is definitely above my motivation and tool capacity to be honest.

    I do however love that you put the temperature sensor and probe for the temp control in the water. I will do something like that. I just need to find a digital thermometer with a lead that doesnt sense ambient air.

    Since the temp control probe will be in the water sensing that temp, wont the compressor not have to fire as much as if it is just laying in there sensing the air? Good little efficiency rating I would think then.

    Btw, I went by Home Depot to get some wood cut and have all my parts ready, but they didnt have any 2 x 6 pine. They only had 2 x 4’s which I thought was weird. They did have douglas fir, but I was hesitant on having it cut up until I can be sure that it would be ok to use.

    I’m not sure if you recommend pine for whatever reason. Would any type of temperature fluctuation between the inside and outside have any effect on the douglas fir as opposed to the pine? Or am I just over thinking this too much?

    Again, thanks guys, and any info is appreciated.

    Off to keg some dunkleweisse!

    • Yeah, have the sensor in water should help with fluctuations. Just make sure your sensor is water-proof! Some temp controllers also have a compressor delay function (like the STC-1000 I’m using) which prevents the compressor from toggling on and off too frequently. This is more about preserving the life of the compressor though, not just power efficiency. You can also set a wider temperature range on your temp controller to limit the cycling of the freezer.

      The wood you find at the store will vary depending on your region. Here in Texas we have Southern Yellow Pine, but I’m guessing in other areas (ex. the North-West) it will just be Douglas Fir. I’m no expert, but from what I understand SYP and Douglas Fir are pretty comparable woods (although the pine is a bit harder I believe). For the collar though it shouldn’t make a difference. If you’re worried, maybe you can get pressure-treated fir, which should stand up to any moisture that may be in your keezer. I got the dehumidiefier mentioned by Billy on his “Keezer updates” page, and it has done a great job preventing any condensation from forming on the inside.


  23. Awesome. Thanks for the feed back on the wood. I will get the rest of my stuff this weekend and hope i can finish it up then.

    As far as the dehumidifier, I did buy one because I was having some issues with some puddling. I cleaned up what I could and put down some paper towels when i put everything back in there along with the dehumidifier but its still condensing in there. I dont know if it needs some time to catch up, but I will wait it out and see what happens.

    Thanks again!

  24. I love the simplicity of your conversion. I was thinking about doing something a bit more extravagant but might settle on your collar design. It’s hard to beat an old freezer for space too. I’d like to see some converted from metal boxes. I bet you could make some really cool retro looking models.

  25. Billy, I don’t see any pictures of the back wondering, is the Oak all the way around the back too or is it just the 2×6? Also are the hinges attached just to the collar…Thanks

  26. Thanks for the fast reply….now all I need is a freezer just not sure what size to get..

  27. Hey Billy,
    So I finished my keezer my homebrew keg is working great…but I just bought a 1/6 barrel craft beer and hooked my coupler up after letting it sit like 20 hours to get cold. I am having an issue with foam that leaves the beer tasting a little flat. My beer line is only 1 ft long not sure if that needs to be longer or if there may be something else. Currently my psi is set at roughly 9/10 psi. Let me know any tips? Longer beer line, certain ID….I just want to enjoy my beer!

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Chris, you definitely need longer beer line. I recommend starting with 10 feet and trimming it back as needed. All of mine are 10 ft. And 3/16 inner diameter is the way to go for this type of system.

      • Thanks for the answer! Does the line need to be so long so that there is enough resistance? Also I guess if I turn the psi down then the beer wouldn’t be carbonated enough cause according to the brew master for north coast scrimshaw it needs to be at 2.85 which would require my psi to be roughly 14 or 15. Again thanks for the advice plan to get more beer line this weekend and I think I may add a fan cause I wonder if temp is playing a factor here as well.

  28. Billy one thing you may want to add to buying a chest freezer….Make sure there is no power cord hooked up to the lid. This was a mistake I made, never even thought about it. Because it was hooked to lid I could not raise it the 6 inches needed(yikes). Well live and learn…

  29. Billy,
    Thanks for posting your great pics. It sure made it easier for me to copy your process as the basis for my Keezer –

    One word of caution to any future builders. I used the freezer spec sheet from homebrewtalk (, but no matter how hard I tried I could not fit the indicated number of kegs in my freezer. I found out later that model dimensions can vary slightly from Canada/US and from year to year, even when model name/number stays the same. My take away from this – double check the inside dimensions of your desired freezer before you plop down your hard earned cash.

    Thanks again for you inspiration
    Cheers from Canada

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Jason thanks for the shoutout and glad the instructions helped. Good tip on the dimensions changing. Definitely something to watch out for.

  30. Michael R says:

    Thanks a lot for this site. It’s an invaluable tool for someone building out their first keezer. I wanted to ask a question and also make a small suggestion.

    1. I found a cheaper/better rated fan on amazon that comes with a power plug cord (can always be stripped to use the other way as well) —

    2. Do you have your fan attached to a constant power source or through the thermometer so it only kicks on when the freezer is on?

    I’ll circle back around and post pics if I don’t have more questions before then. Cheers!!

    • Billy Broas says:

      Hey Michael, the fan looks good – thanks for the link. To answer your questions, my fan is constantly plugged in.

    • Another option instead of always-on is to use a switch to turn off the fan when the freezer is opened to keep the cool air inside.

      I used this magnetic switch ( and wired it so that when the freezer lid is closed the fan stays on, and when it is open a bunch of LED light strips turn on to illuminate the inside of the freezer.

      • Note that the magnetic switch you linked is rated for 12V, so I presume you have a 12v DC inverter before the fan/lights/switch, as well as a 12v DC fan instead of a 115v AC fan as listed in several other posts.
        I like your idea! — just wanted to mention this for people who are not as familiar with electronics.

        • Andrew,
          Yes, thanks for the clarification! I do have a DC inverter hooked up before the lights and computer fan.

          If anyone is interested, the way I have it wired up is as follows:

          I have a protected power strip mounted to the back of the collar which is plugged into the wall. Plugged into this is a DC power inverter and a computer power cable. This way the inverter and cable can easily be replaced if something goes wrong.

          The DC power inverter has stripped ends which are connected to spring terminals mounted to the back of the collar. The terminals feed into the inside of the collar and connect to the LED strips and fan via the magnetic switch.

          The computer power cable connects to a custom box mounted in the collar which contains a switched and fused power input, the temp controller, and a controlled power outlet (which the freezer is plugged into).

  31. Billy – thanks for the site & the instructions.

    I bought the same Kenmore black 8.8 freezer and notice it has a cord on the back running from the lid down to the compressor box, which I’m guessing powers the lid light & temp alarm. It appears you can disconnect it at the bottom w/o having to cut any wires, but was that necessary w/ your build?

    My concern is that there’s not enough slack once the lid & collar are seated. Did you have to make any adjustment to account for the cord length?


  32. Hello, I stumbles upon this site and enjoyed the instruction. I am in process of building my own Keezer. I just received my taps and 4 keg manifold but I noticed the gas in is 3/8 and the 4 gas outs are 5/16? I havent picked up my gas lines yet but how do I connect 5/16 gas out from the manifold to my 3/16 Ball locks?

  33. Billy,
    I have a little different goal, but your solution will satisfy it! Thanks for all the sharing!!
    So, rather than taps on the front, I am replacing a setup where a kegerator feeds taps that are wall mounted (through the wall, in to a formal bar area [actually, taps mounted in to the chopped off top of a wine barrel!, if you can picture that, so the kegerator is in the mechanical room). But I can adapt to make it work – will be drilling holes in the back of the collar to feed the wall, with the beer lines in insulated pipes.
    But, my question is, did you ever consider using pressure treated wood for the inside collar part? Any pros or cons you’ve considered or heard about that? Thanks!

  34. All the pony kegs that I’m seeing in the pictures are home brew kegs with air in and a beer out ‘ports.’ What additional parts would I need for a regular purchased keg with the one main ‘port’ for a pump tap? How do you get air in and beer out through the same hole?

  35. Jason Randall says:

    I’m interested in where you bought those brass crown bolts. I can’t find them locally or on the internet.

  36. This looks amazing. I’m currently redoing my bar and I was thinking about doing something similar to this. How outlandish would it be if I were to attach a big piece of finished wood to the lid to act as a bar top? Would the hinges be able to bear the weight when flipping the lid up and down with the added weight of wood?

    • Also, how about building basically a wooden box all around it so that it doesn’t look like a freezer? Would that work?

  37. She is mine now! I’m the proud new owner of this gorgeous keezer!

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